Volume 1 follows the remarkable ascent of Ian Cairns, from early beginnings in Sydney and Western Australia, to status as a champion surfer and pre-eminent big wave charger in Hawaii. Along the way Ian is confronted with serious challenges, not just in huge surf. His strong desire to follow his own path, to be respected and successful while making a living from the joyful pursuit he loves, is largely achieved. The story culminates during the tumultuous year of 1976 on Hawaii’s awesome North Shore. The Bronzed Aussies, International Professional Surfing, and the Black Shorts are all formed within weeks of each other. All three bodies are inextricably linked in a battle to control and gain from surfing. The cut and thrust between the main players from these dynamic groups has consequences for the surfing world at large. Profit, losses, and sacrifices are made. Blood is spilled too with clashes along the way. Ian is at the forefront in this explosive environment. He continues winning events in giant surf while fighting his battles on land as pro surfing is born with its first official world championship tour.

Product details

Format: Paperback
Dimensions: US Trade
Pages: 495 pgs